Omega Seamaster 1000 Collector's Guide

In Search of the Grand

*The Grand is the nickname for the Seamaster 1000 model 166.093.

The Seamaster 1000 is the most water-resistant watch that Omega has ever made.

Even when tested at depths well beyond its intended use limit, its waterproofness was never compromised.

There were two types of movement : the 1002, released in 1972, and the caliber 1012, which was sold for professional and retail use from 1976.

The curved shape of the back and sides make it surprisingly handsome and comfortable for such a large watch.

Additionally, there are four lug holes on each side, making it an unusual design that can be used with different bracelet positions.

Omega Seamaster 1000 Model number 166.093 - s/n 38.918.XXX
- Delivered to Finland on October 26, 1977 - Caliber 1012. Beautiful fading from use.

 

The Seamaster 1000 was created when Prince Rainier III of Monaco asked OMEGA to produce a watch as a souvenir for supporters of the Monaco Oceanographic Institute and Museum.

Prince Rainier III apparently commissioned 50 watches to be made that were different from Omega's signature 166.075 Seamaster 600.

In response to this request, the "166.093 Seamaster 1000" was chosen.

Jacques Cousteau, who served as the museum's director from 1957 to 1988, later proclaimed that the original model, sent to him personally by Prince Rainier III, was his favorite diving watch.

Jacques Cousteau wearing a Seamaster 1000

Omega produced an additional 100 units for sale to the public.

The Seamaster 1000 is undoubtedly a rare watch, and if unused and properly equipped, it can sell for over $25,000 at auction.

Unlike its competitors, the Seamaster 1000 is cleverly designed to not require a helium escape valve.

Prototype

Early in the joint development with COMEX, technological advances in saturation diving ( a technique for diving to extreme depths while exposing the body to deep-sea water pressure) necessitated the production of a diver's watch with even higher water resistance than the existing Seamaster 300.

Omega's engineers then combined a monocoque case with the newly developed Calibre 1000 series, and the Seamaster 1000 was born.

OMEGA was at the forefront of early research and development into diver's watches and saturation diving, and held the exclusive rights to distribute diver's watches to COMEX until 1971.

The Seamaster 1000 had a simple rotating bezel and was waterproof and airtight enough to eliminate the need for a helium escape valve.

By adopting a famous case, as represented by the COSMIC 2000 series, it links to the unique Rolex style of the past.

The watch also features the slim automatic movement 1002-1012 with its easily readable plongeur (French for diver) hand, and an innovative unidirectional rotating time-lapse bezel.

The Seamaster 1000 is fitted with a 0.5cm thick crystal and has undergone repeated 'top-to-bottom' testing (a test conducted by Omega which uses a barometer to subject the watch to pressure cycles equivalent to taking the watch 'to the top of Everest and to the bottom of the ocean').

Independent testing has shown that the watch is more watertight than a submarine and has no issues with helium ingress.

The Seamaster 1000, along with a Seamaster 600, were installed on International Underwater Construction's Beaver Mark IV submarine to test the effect of depths of more than 1000m on the crystal (the transparent covering that covers the watch face).

Further testing was carried out by Richard Winchester of Intersub .

The watch he tested to a depth of 1000m, 101 ( presumably the number given to the Seamaster 1000 prototype tested by Richard Winchester ), can be seen in the photo to the left and in a close-up below.

 

This watch is the predecessor to the Seamaster 600.

The numbers on the bezel are taken from the US Navy decompression tables.

Please note the central seconds hand, which indicates the operation of the watch, and the large, highly visible minute hand.

This highly refined watch was well received by divers and COMEX alike.

The original registered design, after production but before retail sale.

1974 Prototype Series 3-1xx

Movement numbers 33110xxx are models that use a right-hand winding, Type 1 bezel and a Seamaster 600 Type 3 dial.

1975 Prototype Series 5-0xx, 5-1xx, 5-2xx

5-096,1012,166,093,August 1975

The fifth prototype introduced a new dial design made by Beyeler.

It represents a new place and new possibilities in OMEGA's history.

5-101 Front

This legendary prototype was tested by Intersub on behalf of OMEGA in 1975, outside a submarine piloted by Captain Dick Winchester, 1000 metres below the surface of the ocean.

5-142 Prototype

5-142 Back side

This watch features a spear-shaped seconds hand on the pre-production prototype dial and is equipped with a special 1011 movement that is chronometer-certified (a measurement of the movement's precision).

It was used to measure temperature and time changes to investigate the effect that freezing and sub-freezing environments have on the timekeeping accuracy of the watch.

5-142

5-183 Front

This is a prototype watch used by Dr. Edward Beckman, a NASA flight surgeon (a specialist physician with knowledge of aerospace medicine) who studied the effects of deep sea pressure on the human body at SeaLab 1, 2, and 3.

Unfortunately the dial has been changed.

5-216 Crown on the right side (external part used for winding and setting the time)

5-216 Back side

This watch has a correct dial, correct bezel, serviced hands, and a right-hand crown made around 1975.

The prototypes given the even numbers 2 and 4 were assigned to the Seamaster 600, while the odd numbers were assigned to the Seamaster 1000.

The number of prototypes was probably around 100 at most.

After 1982, THE GRAND was no longer sold, but OMEGA developed an electronic version.

1982 Electronic Prototype Series

F300 based on the Caliber 1250 Mosaba
Likely a 1972 Caliber 1260

It uses tuning fork technology licensed from Bulova.

Technically it's the same as Omega's other F300s, but with a heavier case, new plongeur hands and THE GRAND rotating time-lapse bezel.

The reason for this is not clear, but the cold water caused the batteries to drain quickly and they needed to be changed regularly, which made them unpopular with professional divers.

It was an advanced model equipped with the new movement "MegaQuartz 1510," but since MegaQuartz cannot compensate for temperature, it loses a lot of time in cold water environments.

Battery life was also an issue.

The Seamaster 1000 T1 Prototype Titanium (1982) was based on the caliber 1110, possibly a later 1111.

A prototype was built for the French Navy, but was rejected due to cost concerns.

Bezel

The bezels are made of acrylic resin and are prone to breakage and cracking, and the tritium paint used in the markers is hygroscopic, so if water gets in, it often causes severe damage.

There were three different bezel variations.

The B1 and B2 bezels are coated with caramel-colored luminous paint. The markers below the 10-minute points are pentagonal.

The B3 bezel has no lume coating and remains the same color overall. The markers below the 10 minute points are triangular.

B1 Bezel

This type is only found in prototypes.

・The "1" in "10" has a corner on top

・The "3" in "30" is written with a rounded top.

- No 10-minute scales

・The triangle at position 0 is colored

B2 Bezel

It has the same insert as the Seamaster 600 B1 bezel.

・The “1” in “10” is written in a straight line with no corners on top

・The triangle at position 0 is drawn with a thin line

・The "2" in "20" has an artistic writing style at the bottom

・The "3" in "30" is written with a flat top

・Pentagonal marks for every 10 minutes

B3 Bezel

The modern bezel insert is similar to the Seamaster 600 B5-.

・The "1" in "10" has a corner on top

・The "2" in "20" is written in a simplified way at the bottom

・The "3" in "30" is written with a rounded top.

・The "4" in "40" is written with a flat top

The triangle at position 0 is smaller and drawn with a thinner line.

・Triangular marks for every 10 minutes

The gripping edges are unpolished so that it can be used in wet conditions.

The bezel is polished and shiny.

The Edge compared side by side with the Seamaster 600.

bracelet

The Seamaster 1000 was the first watch to come standard with the newly created Milanese (mesh-like) bracelet of the 1970s, which was available in two variations with two different extensions.

The bracelet is described as an "Omega Shark" bracelet Petite Mailliere (French for mesh) with a sliding clasp.

This bracelet was later featured on the third and fourth generation Seamaster 600, but was standard on the Seamaster 1000 from the start.

The photo of a standard strap buckle shows an early prototype Omega buckle next to it, which has no internal length adjustment.

This buckle was only supplied to professional divers who used the rubber or metal extensions shown in the picture.

Standard strap next to the prototype

An early original metal extender with a removable rubber strap (Courtesy of Simon Barnes)

A removable rubber extension that can be attached to an existing mesh bracelet to extend the circumference over a synthetic rubber wetsuit

1247/224

Serial numbers commonly found on prototype straps

Service bracelet (replacement bracelet)

The original bracelet is 1247-237, the one with the number "37" circled.

It's a very generous length, requires very little metal insert, has a low gloss finish, and is made by SP.

The service bracelet is the 1247-237 with the number "59" circled, which is significantly shorter and has a high-polish chrome-like finish.

There are two manufacturers of service bracelets: IAI and JJF.

Crown

The crown is protected by the Caliber 1012

The crown is not fully protected by the Caliber 1002

Case

All cases are crafted so that the right-hand crown lines up with the internal engraving.

 

When assembled and prototype tested for the retail market, the movement was mounted with the case upside down and the crown positioned on the left side to make the watch more comfortable to use.

 

Many collectors seem to be confused about the placement of this crown, so let us explain.

Modern replica cases also have a crown on the right side, but the crown is first placed on the left side before being assembled.

 

5th generation prototype right-handed crown

 

The integrated case of the Seamaster COSMIC series, which was also featured on the Flightmaster released in 1969, clearly influenced the case of the Seamaster 1000 that was to be completed in the future.

 

 

The early models had a flat back with grooves and a non-slip surface and were based on the caliber 1002 with a date display that was available at the time.

The curve of the crown on the left side and the gentle curve of the case back make for an extremely comfortable fit, which has led to improvements being made to make this the ultimate sales model.

 

Early prototype flat back

 

There are two main types of watch cases: original cases and replica cases.

This can be identified by the case finish and the shape of the lugs.

 

The original case was manufactured by Ervin Piquerez SA, known as EPSA, and features a diving bell mark.

The diving bell is obviously out of proportion on the reproduction and the font is also different.

 

Other ways to distinguish between originals and copies include the style and type of printing, particularly the font of the letter "A. "

 

Original with radial layered finish

 

Sunburst finish (also known as sunray finish, a radial pattern that looks like sunlight is being emitted) replica

 

The original "A" with a flat top

 

A replica of the letter "A" with a pointed top

 

Original lug side

 

Side of the lugs of the replica - note the shiny service bezel

 

original
Stepped lugs. Bracelet inserts with gently tapered corners.

 

Replicas Non-stepped lugs Rounded corner bracelet inserts

 

 

When used by professional divers, serious damage was caused to the case.

As a result, Omega was forced to produce a series of service cases (replacement cases), some of which ended up going to external subcontractors (see Replicas).

 

Right side crown assembly example

 

The caliber 1012 would not fit into the 1002 case, and the 1012's rotor (the fan-shaped part used in the movement that generates the power to wind the mainspring) would come into contact with the narrow space.

This has recently revealed that there may be other cases.

Dial

During the prototype and pre-production stages, Beyer was selected to create the dials.

Beyer was the manufacturer contracted to make the dials for the Seamaster 600, and is also known for making dials for diver's watches from other manufacturers, including Rolex.

The Seamaster 600 dial was chosen initially, and both pre- and post-production models were given the Seamaster 600 reference number 1427.

 

When the caliber was changed to 1012, the watch was reassessed and a new depth rating of 1000m was inscribed on the dial instead of the previous 600, and it was renamed the Seamaster 1000.

 

There are three dials available, coloured in various shades of blue.

However, they frequently suffered from a phenomenon called "crystallization," which caused air bubbles to form around the pinion hole (the small gear fixed to the gear shaft) and on the surface of the dial.

 

Additionally, if moist air became trapped inside the case, the tritium luminous dial markers could become blackened or stained by mold.

Dial 1
Oval "0", tritium luminous markings, "Swiss-made" inside the minute track

 

Dial 2
Non-oval "0", Luminova markings, "Swiss-made" inside the minute track

 

Dial 3
Service dial (replacement dial for repairs), Luminova markings, long continuous scale, "Swiss-made" marking on the outside of the minute track, no Luminova in the date window

 

1247B
Please also take note of the Seamaster 600 part number enclosed in a yellow box on the back cover of Dial 1, which was not manufactured by Beyer.

 

Back of the produced Dial 1

 

Back side of the service dial (replacement dial)

 

Back of the current service dial

Bubble dial

Because the watch is sealed, moist air can get trapped inside and cause corrosion between the brass dial mount and the organic paints used.

 

This caused air bubbles to form on the dial, which caused many watches to break down.

Hand (needle)

The hands are the same plongeur type as the Seamaster 600.

There are four variations of the hour hand.

 

Longer hour hand with luminous paint

Regular luminous hour hand

Blunt hour hand

Movement

This watch was originally equipped with the calibre 1002.

It was then changed to the more powerful caliber 1012 for use in the fifth prototype, which was then sold in retail as is.

The 1000 movement was seen in a small number of prototypes between early 1968 and 1971.

1012
1012 prototype movement from 1973-74

1012
This movement was used in 75 prototypes and in the commercially available watches.

 

Due to the different internal case dimensions, it was not possible to upgrade a 1002 movement to a 1012, and often the entire movement had to be replaced.

Early cases can be dated by their caliber and dimensions.

It is generally believed that Caliber 1012 watches sold at retail between 1976 and late 1977 had serial numbers in or near the 38 million range.

catalog

The mystery of the missing clock

 The author is currently investigating what became of pre-production watches equipped with the caliber 1002.

With the help of Venezuelan watch collectors Alejandro, Juan and Pablo, the authors uncovered a cache of 10 watches that were allegedly sold in Venezuela in the early 70s.

And I discovered that all of them were equipped with the dials of the D1/D2 Seamaster 600.

At the time, Venezuela was the eighth largest economy in the world and a very important market for both Omega and Rolex.

Authorized dealer Salvador Cupero sold these limited edition Calibre 1002 models to VIPs and prominent local collectors.

 

It is speculated that this is part of a consumer watch called "Rainier" made by Omega.

Fewer than 150 were likely made, 50 of which were given to Prince Rainier. The author is currently conducting extensive research with the assistance of Venezuelan watch experts to identify these watches and related pieces that were delivered to Europe.

 

Most of the clocks that remain in Venezuela show signs of having had their dials replaced.

 

 

This site is still incomplete and will be updated as new discoveries are made.

Replicas

Watchmakers were able to quickly create similar replicas of this Seamaster 1000.

These replicas can be easily identified with the help of this guide.

In most cases, the replicas will feature the cheaper 1002 movement, service dial, bezel and hands.

And if a watch looks too good to be true, it's probably a replica.

Price and Value

The Seamaster 1000 is so rare that it's difficult to put an exact price on it.

Even "replicas" made from repair parts typically sell for nearly £5,000 (about 810,000 yen).

 

This watch, in original condition, is expected to fetch between £8,000 and £10,000.

 

Given recent sales of the Seamaster 600, this series, combined with the Seamaster 1000 prototypes and their intriguing history, is likely to fetch a top price of over £30,000 at auction.

 

They were on the market for two years from 1976, with the last one delivered in 1982, but as they were generally only purchased by professional divers, an accurate estimate of the production volume is not possible.

 

It is estimated that fewer than 500 were made, and due to the watch's high wear, it is believed that fewer than 300 remain.

The 1972 1002 version is even rarer.

 

Since the creation of this guide, prices for the Seamaster 1000 have begun to rise rapidly, and its incredible origins have become known.

 

If you are unsure of the value of your watch, please contact the author.