A Brief History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watch

There are so many different Royal Oak models that it would be too long to explain them all here, so I will start by explaining the three-hand models in a way that covers them all.

By watching this video, you will be able to learn about the many references, as well as understand when they were produced and how they have evolved.

I would be happy if you could use this as a reference if you come across any references that interest you in the future.

Before introducing the watch, we will briefly explain model numbers, as it is difficult to fully understand watches without some basic background knowledge.

About Royal Oak reference "model numbers"

When you look at the model number of a Royal Oak, the first thing you will see is a four or five digit number.

This will be your reference.

Then come two English letters that represent the material.

Here, we will only explain this part of the material.

ST = Stainless steel

BA = 18K Yellow Gold

SA = Stainless steel and yellow gold

Take a look at the Royal Oak's past collections

1972 Reference 5402 39mm (Jumbo)

The first model of the Royal Oak, designed by Gerald Genta, was unveiled at the Basel Fair in 1972 after two years of development.

Characteristic features of the Royal Oak include a hexagonal bezel and exposed screws, while the overall design is inspired by diving helmets.

The first model released was the Royal Oak ref. 5402ST.

The 5402ST had a 39mm case that was just 7mm thick, giving a sense of sophistication and luxury to sports watches that had previously been associated with high-end dress watches.

This model was a new genre of wristwatch that perfectly combined excellent precision, shock resistance, date display function and design.

The movement is equipped with the automatic movement Cal.2121.

This Jumbo is now traded for around 10 million yen, but it was actually not very popular when it was first released.

This is because it was far from the standard size of the time, and although it is hard to imagine in modern terms, it was not very popular because it was "too big."

Since then, models have introduced a variety of new complications, including perpetual calendars, moon phases and chronographs.

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1977-84 Reference 4100(14100) 35mm

The next model was born in 1977. The reference number is 4100.

The case diameter was changed to 35mm, which became the standard size at the time.

The movement used is Cal. 2123, which is based on Jaeger-LeCoultre's Cal. 889.

A significant proportion of luxury sports watches from this era are equipped with Jaeger-LeCoultre movements, because Jaeger-LeCoultre was the only company capable of making thin automatic movements.

By the way, this is the only model with a 35mm diameter, and subsequent models will gradually become larger.

Next, I will briefly explain the quartz model.

1978-1980 Ref.6005SA Quartz 33mm

This is a little different from the evolutionary history, but looking at it now I think it's a very attractive model, so I'd like to introduce it to you briefly.

The movement is quartz Cal. The QZ2511 uses a square case.

It has been produced in small quantities since the 1980s, but while it retains the Royal Oak design, it is a unique model that cannot be imitated by other brands.

And in the next generation model, the shape will be unified into the standard octagonal bezel shape that we are familiar with.

So let's take a look at these new models.

Mid 1980s to mid 2010s Ref.56175ST 33mm Quartz model

Reference 56303

The case size is 33mm, which is now considered a ladies' size, but it would also be better called a boys' size.

The quartz models returned to the standard Royal Oak shape with the Ref. 56175 and Ref. 56303, and from this model onwards, quartz models began to be produced in longer and thinner styles.

These are two models, and after doing some research I found that they were produced for the same period and are equipped with the same QZ.Cal.2612.

This means that two models that performed almost the same role but only had different model numbers were in the lineup at the same time.

If you have any information about these two models, please let me know.

Now let's take a look at the next-generation model.

2016-present Ref. 67650ST 33mm Quartz model

Then in 2016, the next-generation model, Ref. 67650ST, was born and remains a quartz model to this day.

This concludes the history of quartz, and now let's take another look at mechanical models.

1990-1992 Reference 14700 36mm

This is a transitional model between the 35mm model of Ref. 4100 and the next-generation Ref. 14790, and can also be considered a pilot model for the Ref. 14790.

The number on the case back is 328, which represents the reference number 14700.

It is not clear when production ended, but considering that the Reference 14790 was born in 1992, it is reasonable to assume that production ended in 1992.

1992-2005 Reference 14790ST 36mm

Left: Reference 14700

Right: Reference 14790

This is the final model with a 36mm diameter.

The movement used is Cal. 2225, which is also a converted version of Jaeger-LeCoultre's Cal. 889/2.

It is unclear whether this is to fill the 36mm diameter slot, but it will be followed by the similarly sized 37mm Ref. 15450ST.

Now let's take a look at the new 39mm model.

1992-1996 Ref.14802 39mm (20th anniversary model, limited production of 1000 pieces)

The first 39mm model did not perform very well, but a new 39mm Royal Oak is now being born.

This is the Ref. 14802ST, created to commemorate the 20th anniversary, and is a jubilee model limited to 1,000 pieces.

However, this one wasn't a huge hit either, and it is said that it took four years to sell all 1,000 bottles.

Now let's take a look at the 33mm automatic model.

1995-2006 Ref.15000 33mm (boys size)

The reference 15000 was produced from 1995 to 2006 because it matched the popular size of the time.

To match the 33mm diameter, short bars are used for the indexes, giving it a dressy style.

The most notable feature of the Royal Oak's 33m diameter is that Perhaps it's the sturdy case and integrated bracelet that makes it appear larger than its 33mm case would suggest.

I think it's this perfect size that makes people today want to own it.

However, as time went on, larger watches became more popular, and this 33mm model was the last.

Next, let's take a look at the yellow gold model that was released in limited edition in 1997.

1997 Limited Edition Ref.15050

This Ref. 15050 is a limited edition made in 1997 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Audemars Piguet's arrival in Japan.

To commemorate this, the number "50" is engraved on the movement's rotor, which can be seen through the skeleton caseback.

The reference 15050 is a derivative of the reference 15000, with the "50" at the end of the reference number denoting that it features an open caseback.

The movement is equipped with automatic winding Cal.2140.

Now let's take a look at the 39mm diameter model.

1996-1999 Reference 15002 39mm

In 1996, Audemars Piguet decided to launch the 15002, but only produced 70 pieces that year.

The distinctive feature of the Ref. 15002 model is that it has the same 8.1mm thick flat case as the 14802 model, but uses a stainless steel back like the 5402.

A total of 186 15002 models were produced between 1997 and 1999 - 174 in stainless steel and 12 in yellow gold - but this 15002 model was short-lived and underwent further refinement.

2012-2022 Reference 15202 39mm

The Ref. 15202 is a reproduction of the original Ref. 5402, released in 2012.

It was named "Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin," incorporating the word "Jumbo" which was used at the time.

The movement is also the same as the Ref. 5402, equipped with Cal. 2121.

The base watch is also made by Jaeger-LeCoultre, who converted the company's cal. 920.

Incidentally, this Jaeger-LeCoultre movement is also supplied to Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe.

It was a movement that truly achieved both functionality and aesthetics.

There are early and late models of this model, but explaining them would take too long, so I will do so on another occasion.

Now let's take a look at the next-generation 39mm model.

2005-2012 Reference 15300ST 39mm

It seems that this model was the one that really made the Royal Oak popular and gain recognition.

As larger watches became more and more popular over time, the 39mm diameter Royal Oak also emerged as a candidate.

The difference between this and the Jumbo Extra-Thin explained earlier is that the simplest part when looking at the face is the second hand.

The Jumbo does not have a second hand, but the Ref. 15300ST does.

The movement has also evolved.

The movement is the in-house manufactured Cal. 3210, which is developed based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufactured Cal. 920 mentioned earlier.

In short, it is an evolution of Cal.2121.

2012-2019 Reference 15400ST 41mm

The case size is 41mm, making it a large, modern size.

2012 - Present Ref.15450ST 37mm

This is a new model with a case size of 37mm.

2019 - Present Ref.15500ST 41mm

Production of the Ref. 15400ST has ended, and the next-generation model, the Ref. 15500ST, has been born.