The history of Nouvelle Lemania, a leading chronograph watch movement company
The History of Nouvelle Lemania, a Leading Chronograph Wristwatch Movement Company Antique Watches
Founding of Nouvelle Lemania
In 1884, Alfred Lugrin founded the Swiss watch company Lugrin SA.
Initially, the company focused on high-quality movements and complications, such as repeaters, calendars, and chronographs with special functions.
The trade name "Lemania" was adopted in 1920 and was stamped on watches from the 1930s through to the 1960s.
In 1932, Lemania Watch Co. became a subsidiary of Omega & Tissot (SSIH, now Swatch Group). It makes sense that Nouvelle Lemania watches can be found in the watches of these three brands.
Nouvelle Lemania's influence is not limited to watch movements, but can also be seen in the cases.
The Birth of Caliber 1345
In the early 1970s, Albert Piguet, one of the designers of Nouvelle Lemania, created a watch based on a patent for a function with a 10-minute countdown timer.
We developed the Aquastar Regatta, Caliber 1345.
The Regatta Caliber 1345 is derived from the 1341 model movement and inherits the first Regatta movement, the Ferusa Cal. 4000N (with a 5-minute timer function found in the 1960s Aquastar).
Since the introduction of the Aquastar Regate, the Nouvelle Lemania 1345 movement has been introduced into other brands' watches, and Aquastar and Tissot have produced various versions of the Yachttimer.
In the 1980s, Omega, Heuer, and Nouvelle Lemania itself began using the 1345 movement in a variety of regatta watches.
The caliber 1345 movement and its patent can be seen in the Aquastar from the 1970s.
Four companies, Aquastar, Tissot, Heuer, and Omega, are equipped with Lemania 1345 movements
The Birth of the Yacht Timer
In the early 1980s, Nouvelle Lemania brought the yacht timer to the market.
The first model was fitted with a Tissot case, which was the first Aquastar model with a two-piece case.
The case back and knob face feature a Spanish galleon (see also the Tissot section).
Or the bracelet is lobster style and the dial is silver or black.
The dial features the Nouvelle Lemania crown and the name "Racing", and on Lemania models the name "Regatta" instead of "Regate".
Like the Aquastar model, the Nouvelle Lemania Racing Regatta counts down from 60 seconds to zero.
Lemania Racing Regatta Silver and Black Dials
Tissot 2-piece case, with the Spanish gallon boat engraved on the back of the case and the Lemania engraved on the rotor.
Square case and lobster bracelet Black and silver dial
Lemania design changes
At some point, the dial changed first.
The "Racing" name was dropped and replaced with the name "Lemania" written under the crown.
Similarly, the back of the case has the galleon and Lemania inscribed on the rotor.
The Aquastar's two-piece case has also been changed to a one-piece case, and the new Lemania logo is now inscribed on the back of the case.
Apart from the bezel, the case itself is the same as the one Aquastar used on the Regate Newport (Heuer 134.50X model).
The bezel is now rounded and very smooth.
Lemania Regatta New case and new engraving on the case back
This new version retains the Lemania crown and is engraved on the steel bracelet buckle, but
For some reason, the rotor part has the word Aquastar written on it.
Mystery is···.
Model: Lemania Racing Regatta
- Reference number unknown, dial silver/black
Caliber: Automatic Lemania 1345 flyback movement
- "Aquastar" case size: Ø 38.7 mm / H 15.6 mm.
Lobster case size: 39.3 x 41.2 mm / H 15.4 mm.
"Lemania" case size: Ø 39,7 mm / H 15,6 mm.
1980s
A booklet on the various Lemania regatta models
Lemania design change 2
The dial remains black or silver and features the Lemania crown and name below 12 o'clock and the word "Regatta-Automatic" above 6 o'clock, or vice versa as seen in the booklet above.
This one seems to be more rare.
Lemania crown and name Top and bottom of the dial
Here's a fun story to prove it.
A Dutch watchmaker famous for having repaired many watches.
A man named Richard Askham once
"A strange Lemania racing regatta with no markings on the rotor."
He took a photo and sent it to a friend.
Even though I've repaired many watches, I've never seen such a version before.
The words "Racing Intermar" and "Lemania TROY" written on the dial
In 1981, the SSIH Group sold its share of Lemania to its own management and external investors.
The company continued as Nouvelle Lemania.
Since 1992, Nouvelle Lemania has been part of the Breguet Group and later became part of the Swatch Group.
The Birth of Lemania Elvström
Let's go back to the watch.
In the late 1980s, Nouvelle Lemania partnered again with Jean-Daniel Dubois and renowned yachtsman Paul Elvström to create yacht timers.
United States Patent 314517 by Jean-Daniel Dubois for "Design for a decorative wristwatch"
This partnership resulted in the creation of the Lemania Elvström in the early 1990s, a model that used the same caliber 1345 but with a more modern case design.
Current models have a rotating bezel and the PE (Paul Elvström) system printed on the dial.
Various versions of the Lemania Elvström
Model: Lemania Elvstrom
Reference numbers: Many, steel bells or leather straps, see booklet
Caliber: Automatic Lemania 1345 flyback movement
Case size: Ø 42 mm / H 19 mm.
Early 1990s
Lemania Elvström brochure from the mid-1990s
Paul Elvstrom combined a compass to
He was the first to show how watches could be used in tactical decision-making.
This style would later be used by many brands.
A guide to using the watch as a tactical tool
Originally, the compass on the bezel was inscribed 3-6-E-12 (as seen in the patent and brochure).
Later, it came to be engraved as 10-20-30-40 (see below).
Lemania Elvström advertisement 1992
At the time, the Lemania Elvström was sometimes made with a titanium case.
This version had a less rounded crown and pushers, and a slightly larger protector over the pushers.
Changes in Lemania Elvström
Top left: Standard type (PE system, no Elvström logo) Elvström case
Top right: Bucherer-only brand
Bottom left: Elvström logo at 6 o'clock, no Lemania logo
Did you notice the difference in the two pictures below?
Many Elvsröm watches have black squares marking the N/E/S/W portions of the bezel like this.
It is not on the bezel in the bottom left photo.
Conclusion
The comparison between the Lemania Regatta and the Lemania Elvstrom above is
It was created by me after years of research and looking at numerous watches, photos and articles.
The rest of the parts are not original, but if you spot any mistakes please let me know!
A comparison article of Lemania regatta models from the Dutch magazine Zeilen, 1992
