Lemania Swedish Air Force Issued Wristwatch: Amazing TG 195 Cal. 2225 (circa 1957)
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Lemania: The Swedish Air Force-issued Watches Are Amazing
Among the watches released by Lemania, the Swedish Air Force "Tg 195" Cal. 2225 model released around 1957 is a very cool-looking and well-made military watch, but that's not its only feature.
This model has a unique function: when the button above the crown is pressed, the movement stops and the second hand rewinds to the 12 o'clock position, after which the time can be set using the crown (flyback function).
Many military watches have hands that stop when the crown is pulled, but the flyback function makes it easier to set the time accurately and to perfectly synchronize multiple watches.
More than 40 years after the Lemania flyback function was created, the same function was also featured in the Saxomat series released by the revived A. Lange & Söhne.
Upon closer inspection, we see that this Lemania Swedish Air Force 'Tg 195' Cal. 2225 is a very high quality watch.
The asymmetrical case is made from heavy stainless steel, is beautifully polished, and is 40mm wide excluding the crown.
The stainless steel area below the bezel is slightly wider, which provides some protection when pushing the crown and makes it easier to partially push it in.
It has a glossy black dial with glow-in-the-dark hands and Arabic numerals.
I have rarely seen a vintage watch with such intricate and clearly defined dial markings.
The overall design is simple and functional, yet also has an appeal that makes you want to wear it.
This 16 jewel movement is a unique adaptation of the highly acclaimed Lemania 2220 flyback chronograph movement.
The 2220 flyback chronograph movement first appeared in the 1930s as the 15CHT, and was still in use by the British military 30 years later.
To enable the large chronograph seconds hand to move smoothly while also being able to accommodate the flyback function, the mechanisms for the smooth-moving seconds hand and the chronograph minute counter have been separated and the gear train has been modified.
The movement is large (15 lignes, approximately 34 mm in diameter) and robust, yet extremely precise and functional, and is equipped with a Breguet balance spring.
The bridge is smooth and the gears are quite well made with nicely-tied teeth and bevelled rims and arms.
I have never seen a watch (except for the Saxomat) with such a flyback function on the main hand.
It features the three royal crowns, which have been Sweden's coat of arms for about seven centuries.
This unusual movement, and the asymmetrical housing designed to house it, will undoubtedly be more expensive than a similar, run-of-the-mill watch, so it's likely only available in production when an important customer places an order.