What to look for when buying a vintage watch

There are fakes of current Rolexes, and they are made so well that it would be nearly impossible for an amateur to tell the difference.

I think to some extent you understand that.

This is because Rolex watches sell for high prices, so it is rewarding for those who make counterfeits.

However, that does not mean that there are no fakes of vintage watches because making a fake would not be rewarding and you would not be able to sell it for a high price.

The prices of vintage watches are rising every year, so it is possible to make a profit by making counterfeits.

Just because it's a vintage watch doesn't mean you need to be too concerned about checking its authenticity, but you should still make sure to check the important points.

Check for the triple sign

This article will explain one thing.

If you try to explain too much in one article, people might not understand it.

First of all, vintage watches always have a triple signature, so be sure to check that.

The triple sign means three signs, and the mark is


・Machine (movement)

・Case (back cover)

There are three locations:

Now, I will explain each of them using the Omega Fat Arrow, a representative vintage watch.

First, the dial, naturally, has a signature representing the brand.

In the case of the watch below, you can see the OMEGA logo and signature on it.

Omega Fat Arrow Dial

The next thing to look at is the back cover.

This varies depending on the brand, but it may be written on the surface of the back cover or on the inside of the back cover.

This one has a signature on the inside of the back cover.

Inside the back of the Omega Fat Arrow

Next comes the movement.

The movement is also engraved with the brand's signature and caliber number.

(Caliber number is not necessarily included)

Omega Fat Arrow Movement

It may seem like an obvious thing, but it's something you might overlook unless someone points it out to you.

Watches without the triple signature

Not all brands have this triple signature.

Brands that have a large brand name are clearly stamped, for example






・Patek Philippe

In these cases, the triple signature is almost always included.

However, these are often not available to ébauche makers or brands that do not have a strong brand name presence.

for example


・Excelsior Park


Please keep in mind that even if a watch has a signature on the dial or case back, there are often no signatures on the movement.

In addition, many of the movements supplied by ébauche brands such as Valjoux and Venus do not have the brand name engraved on them.

For example, Breitling actively used Venus movements, but some of their movements have Breitling printed on them and some do not, so it is important to determine which movement was used in a particular watch.